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from "The Atlantic" Oct 2007 
The phallus is Bhutan’s most celebrated symbol. Homes are painted with images of 10-foot-tall penises spurting semen, monastery entrances are adorned with carved wooden erections, giant concrete fountains have phallic shapes. According to Buddhist scholars, the phallus is a cautionary symbol of the dangers of the male ego; for ordinary Bhutanese, it’s a talisman against evil spirits.

The symbol can be traced back to the Buddhist saint Drukpa Kunley, the "divine madman,” who came to Bhutan in the late 15th century. He is a contradictory hero—a holy man, degenerate womanizer, and blasphemous drunk whose behavior was intended to shock both clergy and laymen out of lazy reliance on ancient ritual. Legend has it that he shot an arrow into the sky from Tibet, followed its path into Bhutan, and began seducing his way across the country, subduing maidens and demonesses alike 

 

In many places, pictures of dragons and soft drink advertisements showing a Bollywood actress jostle for space on the walls with phallic drawings. 

The origin of these drawings can be traced to a Buddhist monastery near Bhutan's former capital, Punakha. 


Maverick saint 

Called Chimi Lhakhang, the monastery is dedicated to Bhutan's maverick saint Lama Drupka Kinley. 

Known for his unconventional and often outrageous teaching methods, Drupka Kinley is fondly called the Divine Madman.

Outside, nearly 100 tall prayer flags, mostly white but some coloured, flutter in the strong breeze. 

Bhutanese people believe that when the wind passes through these flags, it carries the prayers along with it, to bless every person and object they touch. 

Legend has it that Drupka Kinley would hit errant demons over the head with his penis to subdue them and turn them into protective deities. 

 
Today, several wooden penises are kept in the monastery. 

The longest, a brown wooden one with a silver handle, is the most important - it is considered a religious relic and is used for blessing the devout. 

The presiding monk tells me Drupka Kinley brought it with him when he arrived in Bhutan from Tibet about 500 years ago. 

The monk hits three young women devotees who come to pray at the monastery on the head with it. 

It is believed that praying at the monastery can bless a childless woman with children. 


Good omen


To get to the shrine, one has to walk through Yowakha village and several houses on the way are decorated with phallic paintings. 

  When people envy me or say bad things about me or my family, it takes away the sting 
Kinley,
resident of Yowakha



Next to the traditionally painted wooden windows of the 80-year-old farmer, Dema's, house is a bright red painting of a penis. 

Dema tells me she hired a professional artist to do it. 

"It's to protect those who live inside the house," she says. 

"It also means that there will be no quarrels among the family members." Her son, Yeshey, and niece, Dorji Zam, nod in agreement. 

A few houses away lives 42-year-old Kinley. 

A simple drawing of a phallus adorns his wall. He tells me he painted it last year when he renovated his house. 

 
"It's to ward off the evil eye. When people envy me or say bad things about me or my family, it takes away the sting," Kinley says. 

He plans to wipe it off and paint a new one. 

"It's not nice. I did it in a hurry," he explains, as he calls his wife and children to pose for a picture with his art. 

But not everyone's comfortable with the paintings. 

In Misina village I come across a house where an obvious attempt is being made to wipe off the painting by coating it with mud. 


Meena is 21 and she's clearly embarrassed about the huge painting standing on testicles that look like wheels. 

"It's very disgusting," says Meena. "It's a male thing. I feel embarrassed when my father and brother are around. I want to get rid of it." 

The importance of the symbol among many south Asian societies is strong. 

Hindus in India and Nepal worship the lingam in temples dedicated to Lord Shiva.